How Best To Move Your Images From Lightroom To Photoshop For Editing

In this episode, we’ll be looking at how best to move your images from Adobe Photoshop Lightroom to Adobe Photoshop for editing. This question came up from one of our members on the ForteSpy Online Community for creative professionals so we decided to do a detailed post on it.


Image Opened in Lightroom
Image Opened in Adobe Lightroom Classic 2018


Setting Up Adobe Photoshop Lightroom

First off, we import our RAW files into our preferred RAW processing software, which in this case is the Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic 2018. After performing our preliminary tonal adjustments/edits in Lightroom, we are now set to take the files into Adobe Photoshop for editing. Before we do that, we need to set up/instruct Lightroom to seamlessly communicate with Photoshop. On the PC (Windows) platform, we’ll go to Edit > Preferences; On the Mac, we’ll go to Lightroom > Preferences and click. We’re greeted with a dialog box which pops up showing us various settings. Our concern now should be the External Editing Tab. Select that tab and it shows a list of parameters we need to pre-define. These parameters are then applied to our images as they leave Lightroom to Photoshop or any other external editor of our choice. In this case, Our external editor would be the Adobe Photoshop CC 2018.

External Editor Options

  1. File Format: You have either PSD or TIFF to select from depending on your workflow.
  2. Color Space: You have ProPhotoRGB, AdobeRGB (1998), Display P3 and sRGB.
    • ProPhoto RGB has the largest colour space and would be advisable to use this if your RAW image has this colour space.
    • AdobeRGB (1998) is a commonly used colour space especially for images destined for print.
    • Display P3 is a newly introduced colour space which is very close to the AdobeRGB (1998).
    • sRGB is also a commonly used colour space especially for images destined for screens or web purposes (online usage).
    • N.B Kindly ensure consistency with your chosen in-camera colour space.
  3. Bit Depth: You have either 8 bits/components or 16-bits/components to choose from depending on your workflow. 8bit files are usually smaller and more compatible with various programs and plugins, but will not preserve fine tonal detail and dynamic range as well as the 16bit data.
  4. Resolution: The default value is 240 but I usually keep mine at 300. You can set yours to your preferred value.
  5. Compression: With PSD files, there is no compression option; with TIFF files at 8bit, you have three compression options; None, LZW and ZIP while with TIFF files at 16bit you have two compression options. None and ZIP. If you decide not to choose any compression option, that would be fine but if you decide to choose a compression option, you’re okay with either of the options. They do basically the same thing, which is to reduce the size of the image without removing detail or colour information.
  6. Stack With Original: This option would enable you to stack the edited version from Photoshop next to the Original version when viewed in Lightroom afterwards.
  7. Edit Externally File Naming: In this column, you can specify a preferred naming nomenclature to be applied after an image leaves Lightroom to an external editor of your choice so that when it returns to Lightroom, it can easily be distinguished from the original image.

When you’re done setting up Lightroom, click OK.

Setting Up Adobe Photoshop CC

Launch Adobe Photoshop and go to Edit  > Color Settings on the PC; same on the Mac. Most of the parameters are okay at default settings. Make sure you have the following boxes clicked. Profile Mismatches and Missing profiles (3 boxes). Click Okay

color settings
colour settings

Importing To Photoshop

At this point, we can now go back to our Lightroom application which is already open. Go to the Develop Module and select the image(s) you want to edit in photoshop; Right-click >Edit > Edit in Adobe Photoshop 2018 and the RAW file moves over seamlessly to Photoshop with all the edits applied to it in Lightroom for you to continue editing. After editing in Photoshop, you go to File > Save, and then open Lightroom, You’ll see the edited copy of the image stacked next to the original image with the pre-defined file naming you set up initially. If you want the images to appear individually in Lightroom you can go to the Library Module and select Photo > Stacking > Unstack. This separates them and they are now two individual images.


  • If there are two or more photos you wish to composite in Photoshop, right-click and select “Edit in” and “Open as Layers in Photoshop.” The images open as one layered file in Photoshop.
  • If you are exporting a TIFF, PSD or JPEG file. Right-Click on the image and a dialog box will pop up with three options as follows; Choose from “Edit a Copy with Lightroom Adjustments,” “Edit a Copy” or “Edit Original” and the image would open in Photoshop.
  • DNG or camera raw files open directly in Photoshop.
  • If you have a conflict of colour spaces between Lightroom and Photoshop you’ll get a notification prompting you to either go ahead with the embedded colour space that is coming from Lightroom, or you change it to the assigned colour space in Photoshop or you ignore colour management entirely.
color profile
colour settings


With these simple steps, it’s that easy to take your images from Lightroom to Photoshop and back to Lightroom. You can go ahead and practice this tip so you get a grip of it. Just in case you have a similar or totally different method of achieving the same results you can do well to share your thoughts in the comments section below.



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The Nik Collection Just Got Axed

Google Nik Collection.

Nik Collection is a set of plug-ins developed for Adobe Photoshop, Adobe Lightroom and Apple Aperture. The Collection consists of vintage camera filters, black and white controls, HDR effects, noise reduction, colour correction, colour enhancement and sharpening.

Back in 2012, search giant, Google acquired this software bringing it and its popular photo editor Snapseed into its list of assets. Snapseed was at that time the most preferred photo editor on the iTunes App Store. Later in 2013, Google announced Snapseed would no longer be available as a Desktop application; thereby making it a mobile-only app. At that same time, the price of the Nik Collection crashed from $500 to $150. In 2016, Google again announced that the Nik Collection would now be going for free. There was so much joy in the photography community because the Nik Collection was very useful especially in speeding up our post-production workflow.

Google just made an announcement via a banner it posted on the Nik Collection Website and it reads;

The Nik Collection is free and compatible with Mac OS X 10.7 through 10.10; Windows Vista, 7, 8; and Adobe Photoshop through CC 2015.
We have no plans to update the Collection or add new features over time.


Well, for those who still make good use of this collection, there’s no guarantee that it’ll be compatible with future versions of Adobe Photoshop, Adobe Lightroom, Apple Aperture, Mac OS and Windows OS. You could just download a free copy and keep just in case; probably Google may just be magnanimous enough to make it some sort of open-source project where developers can redefine and keep it alive.. otherwise we’ll miss you dearly NIK…….

How To Prepare Your Images For Online Use


It’s very important we prepare our images properly before we publish them online. In summary, this has to do with reducing the file size and yet retaining its quality. This deliberate act of ours helps to optimise the loading time of our websites and ensures that whatever file we prepare, the quality is maintained after publishing.


The following image formats are considered while preparing files for online use.

  • Mode of Compression

This could either be lossy or lossless. When an image undergoes lossy compression, it means that the resultant image size is reduced and retains the same quality as the original copy and is seen at close range. This makes it ideal for web use.

For lossless compression, the resultant image retains the same quality as the original but with a larger file size which makes it not so suitable for web use.

  • Image File Type

There are three major image file types used for web purposes; they are the JPEG, GIF and PNG. They all have their advantages and disadvantages.


This is the most preferred image file type used on the web. It’s perfect for photographs because it provides a huge colour palette to play with. You can use it to store images that contain gradients, millions of colours, HDR, etc. It’s a lossy format and is stored in any quality (low, medium, high) but they don’t have support for transparency.


This is another popular image file type used on the web. it’s a lossless file format and there are two types namely PNG-8 and PNG-24. PNG-8 can store up to 256 colours while PNG-24 can store millions of colours but with a larger file size. The primary advantage of the PNG file type over the JPEG file type is that it supports transparency.


This is a lossless file format. It can save up to 256 colours. The format is a bitmap which means it consists of tiny pixel squares. A GIF image may contain more than one frame so it could be animated. This file format was later re-packaged and re-introduced as PNG

  • Image File Size

Images have a file size measured in kilobytes (KB) or megabytes (MB) and a file dimension measured in width and height (in pixels). You can think of them as the weight and size of the image.


There are so many applications that could be used to produce this but we’ll narrow our focus down to just a few important ones that concern us as photographers.

  • Adobe Photoshop Lightroom

This is a popular image editor used by professional photographers and amateurs as well. It has a user-friendly interface and it’s very functional. After launching the software, you go to your top left corner and select File>Export or use the keyboard shortcut Ctrl+Shift+E and the export dialog box pops up which displays two columns. The process begins with the options on the right column.

Export Location

This helps us define the location/file path to which exported images are saved. We could even choose a location anywhere on our internal hard drive or an external path.

File Naming

This row gives us the option of re-naming our files during export. There are a couple of options in the drop-down menu you could as well choose from.

File Settings

This area allows us to specify the file format to be applied, for this purpose, we’ll stick with JPEG. The quality should be between 75% and 100%. The colour space for web is sRGB. We also have an option of setting a definite file size which could always come in handy.

Image Sizing

Majority of the smartphones that are manufactured these days come with a standard screen resolution of 1920 x 1080 pixels so I’ll want to select the Resize to fit option and choose long edge; set the size to 1080 pixels and resolution to 72 pixels per inch (this is what the web sees. Anything greater than this is a waste).

Output Sharpening

In this option, I leave it at sharpen for screen. The Amount is set to standard. In some cases, you may decide not to sharpen depending on your post-production workflow or use a higher amount of sharpening.


For Online use, I usually include all metadata. There are other options you could choose from when you click the drop-down menu.


It’s always advisable to use some form of watermarking on your images before sharing them online. This could be in form of a text or a logo. Using watermarks are good and its use is also a matter of personal preference. Some photographers use this while some don’t. We’ll be discussing this in detail in a future editorial.

Post Processing

This row allows us to tell the application what to do after exporting the images. I usually leave it at Show in Explorer. This ensures that the export folder where the images are stored opens up for me to view my job after exporting.

Having gone through the process of exporting images for the web using the Adobe Lightroom desktop application, we can go ahead and save these settings as a preset so we use it subsequently when the need arises. To do that, we’ll go to the left column and click the Add button below. This brings up a dialog box to enable you to save the name of the preset and under your preferred folder. When you’re done with that, you click Create and it’s saved.

The cool thing about this is that you can apply it to a huge number of images at once as it executes this command during export.

  • Adobe Photoshop

This is pretty straight forward also. To prepare our files for web use, we go to the file tab at the top left corner of the application , when we click it, we go to the Export>Save for Web (legacy) option or just use the keyboard shortcut Alt+Shift+Ctrl+S; the export dialog box pops up and here we can control parameters like the Image type, Quality, Color space, Image size and Metadata info to be included. After putting in our desired parameters, we can now save.

In Photoshop this is easily done on a single image. Batch processing files in Photoshop isn’t as straightforward as it is in Lightroom but we’ll be covering that in detail in a future editorial.

That being said, I hope we’ve been able to learn something new from this Editorial. Have you been doing this? what other means have you been using?

Kindly share your thoughts in the comments section below.